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A Decade Without Gaby Aghion: The Woman Who Revolutionised Chloé and SHAPED six influential designers
It’s been ten years since the fashion world bid farewell to Gaby Aghion, the visionary founder of Chloé. An Egyptian-born Parisienne, Aghion established the iconic Maison in 1952 and redefined what it meant to dress the modern woman. In the wake of WWII, fashion was dominated by the formality-laden rigidity of Haute Couture, but Aghion saw things differently and dared to break the mould. She introduced and coined the phrase prêt-à-porter, creating beautiful, wearable clothes for real women. It wasn’t just about looking good—it was about freedom of movement and expression. Chloé became synonymous with this bohemian-chic aesthetic—Parisian, but not couture—an essence that still resonates today.
Aghion wasn’t just a founder; she was a talent magnet, a catalyst in the careers of many distinguished designers. She handpicked some of the most legendary names in fashion to join her quiet rebellion at Chloé: Karl Lagerfeld, the maestro of modern glamour, Phoebe Philo, the trailblazer of understated cool, and Stella McCartney, the torchbearer of conscious, eco-friendly fashion.
Even after Aghion’s era, Chloé has continued to be a home for bold female designers. From Clare Waight Keller to Gabriela Hearst, and now Chemena Kamali, the brand’s current creative director, each has honoured Aghion’s legacy of romantic elegance and innovation. While maintaining her spirit, they have all infused their own distinct vision into the house’s rich history, blending tradition with modernity.
Chloé continues to evolve, shaped by the bold, visionary leadership of six particularly influential designers. Each has played a pivotal role in defining the house’s aesthetic and philosophy, contributing uniquely to its rich history. Let’s explore how each of these creative leaders has left their mark on Chloé.
Karl Lagerfeld – When Karl Lagerfeld took the reins at Chloé in 1963, he pushed the brand to new heights with his whimsical, romantic designs. One of the most memorable moments? His iconic “shower dress” from 1983—a gown crafted from silk and plastic, with trompe-l'œil water droplets that made it look like the model had just stepped out of the shower. It was bold, playful, and quintessentially Lagerfeld.
Phoebe Philo – Stepping into the shoes of McCartney, Phoebe Philo took over at Chloé and brought her minimalist, effortlessly chic style to the house. Her designs balanced the brand’s bohemian spirit with a sleek, modern edge, helping to redefine Chloé for a new generation. Philo’s work at Chloé was just the beginning, setting the stage for her later success at Celine.
Stella McCartney – Stella McCartney’s time at Chloé (1997-2001) was all about bringing fun, youth, and a fresh, feminine energy to the brand. She fused Chloé’s bohemian roots with sharp tailoring and her commitment to sustainability. Like Aghion, McCartney designed for real women, balancing beauty with practicality and laying the foundation for her own trailblazing path in eco-friendly fashion.
Clare Waight Keller – From 2011 to 2017, Clare Waight Keller breathed fresh life into Chloé’s romantic heritage. Her designs were feminine, cool, and always wearable, blending the house’s signature bohemian vibe with modern, clean lines. Like Aghion, Waight Keller believed in effortless elegance and freedom of movement, giving Chloé a contemporary edge whilst staying true to its roots.
Gabriela Hearst – Gabriela Hearst joined Chloé as Creative Director in 2020, bringing her sustainability-focused vision to the forefront. She collaborated with organisations like the Sheltersuit Foundation and helped Chloé become the first luxury fashion house to earn B Corporation certification. Hearst’s commitment to creating fewer, better pieces aligns perfectly with Aghion’s vision of designing for real women—free, fluid, and empowered.
Chemena Kamali – Having previously worked at Chloé under Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller, Chloé’s newly appointed creative director, Chemena Kamali, is celebrated for her deep connection to the brand, having spent over 20 years building a relationship with Chloé, which she described as “natural and personal”. Interview Magazine referenced her latest SS25 show as a “boho springtime fantasy”, with pieces like hobo bags and ’70s wedges. Thus, Kamali is evidently preserving Chloé’s ethos of freedom and fluidity whilst pairing it with modern sensuality.
Aghion’s vision was all about embracing femininity and freedom without losing sophistication. Her designs embodied a quiet revolution against the inflexibility of couture, giving birth to what we now call “bohemian chic.” Ten years after her passing, her legacy is stronger than ever. Chloé continues to evolve, but it will always bear the mark of Gaby Aghion’s ground-breaking vision.